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55Kab
13 years ago

i'll have a look for the join...must be well disguised as they dont show obviously!

THEBOFFIN wrote:



You won't see it Adam. It's leaded from the factory, you'd have to melt the lead out with I guess something like a blowtorch.

Cutting it through the trim holes is what I'd do.

GKL 7
13 years ago
I'd go trim holes down.
Here are some pictures of a door we repaired,will give you a rough idea at what level you should be looking for the capping join on your 1/4 panel.  416-pictures-284_jpg.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.  416-pictures-291_jpg.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.
+1
THEBOFFIN
13 years ago

I'd go trim holes down.
Here are some pictures of a door we repaired,will give you a rough idea at what level you should be looking for the capping join on your 1/4 panel.

'50 Karmann wrote:



thanks
adam
THEBOFFIN
13 years ago

You won't see it Adam. It's leaded from the factory, you'd have to melt the lead out with I guess something like a blowtorch.

Cutting it through the trim holes is what I'd do.

55Kab wrote:



i'll have a look, but 50 Karmann has suggested a slightly different cut?
GKL 7
13 years ago

i'll have a look, but 50 Karmann has suggested a slightly different cut?

THEBOFFIN wrote:




No Adam,on this occassion i'd go along the trim lines,because you have inner and outer damage.Like Rob said this way you can brace the exsisting panel and join.I think if you remove the full panel,you'll be knackered.
The pictures were purely to show you the location of the factory join.
THEBOFFIN
13 years ago

No Adam,on this occassion i'd go along the trim lines,because you have inner and outer damage.Like Rob said this way you can brace the exsisting panel and join.I think if you remove the full panel,you'll be knackered.
The pictures were purely to show you the location of the factory join.

'50 Karmann wrote:



Thanks for that, yes i agree dont want to remove too much and loose rigidity, must keep the opening true especially as its a cabrio
THEBOFFIN
12 years ago
Since my last post I've decided to make the car as authentic as possible.. Hence my purchase of the lhd 56 pan that was on eBay and Dave's 56 'crash' gearbox!... That will be fun to drive!..
So along with my 56 engine I've had from the start this is about as near as I can get to having an original 56 vert, without it being a matching numbers car.

So my semi restored (new pans by previous owner)rhd 62 pan inc original gearbox and beam, not forgetting pre-suffix plate XSJ 847 with full current v5 in my name and tax exempt will be for sale shortly!.. Watch this space,
THEBOFFIN
12 years ago
hi all

now it's home new pics of 56 LHD pan, that had been sat for 18 years in the same place untouched!...has had new pan halves but done very well and very solid otherwise,..even included a free birds nest in the frame head! just needing a paint and cleaning off of some surface rust and green!..came with partial V5 and correct registration too, great!
Picked up Dave's gearbox too, in good order too, just gave it a clean.
Just need some of the missing bits now if any one can help?..torsion tube covers, rear brake drums and backplates, and gearbox cradle and big bolts..

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THEBOFFIN
12 years ago
i've read in the original oval VW brochure and the handbook that the de-luxe models and convertibles originally had a syncromesh gearbox and not a crash gearbox which was only fitted to the standard models?

...can anyone help..want to identify if the one i bought from Dave is syncromesh or not?
vintagebug
12 years ago

What's the number on the gearbox? If it begins with the letter "A" then I think that means it's got syncro on 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears. A full crash 'box doesn't have the "A".
A '56 cabrio shouldn't have a crash 'box.

Dave
Dave
"When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading"
vintagebug
12 years ago

I've seen the ad for your 'box and the number is A-853581, which means it's a June '56 'box with syncro on 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears. It's the correct model for your cabrio :thumbup:

Dave
"When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading"
+1
THEBOFFIN
12 years ago

I've seen the ad for your 'box and the number is A-853581, which means it's a June '56 'box with syncro on 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears. It's the correct model for your cabrio :thumbup:

vintagebug wrote:



Thanks Dave

Just what i wanted to hear!!:thumbup:

adam
vintagebug
12 years ago

How's the resto going, Adam? It looks like your making some progress again! :thumbup:

Dave
"When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading"
harveypj
12 years ago
All the bits coming together nicely:thumbup:
Would I be correct in saying the beam on the 56 pan is a lowered one?
Stock......the new custom
AW
  • AW
  • pre67vw Junkie
12 years ago
Yes looks like the mounts have been cut and turned. It was how it was done years ago before all these drop kits came on the market. People also used to turn them the other way to go on off roaders.
Also it looks like the rear spring plates have been moved to lower it by the position that thay are in.



Andy W
AW
  • AW
  • pre67vw Junkie
12 years ago
PS theres a L H D 56 pan with transaxle and front beem on Ebay at the moment :thumbup:



Andy W
THEBOFFIN
12 years ago

Yes looks like the mounts have been cut and turned. It was how it was done years ago before all these drop kits came on the market. People also used to turn them the other way to go on off roaders.
Also it looks like the rear spring plates have been moved to lower it by the position that thay are in.



Andy W

AW wrote:



Andy,
I thought the beam had been cut and turned when i saw the pics , but strangely has only been cut halfway through then welded up??..any ideas?
And I want to go back to standard ride height, any idea how to get the rear spring plates back to where they should be at factory height ??

Adam
AW
  • AW
  • pre67vw Junkie
12 years ago
Not knowing how many splines its been droped and at whitch end is hard to say but looking at the angle of the spring plates maby just one spline on the outside fitting.
I would get the spring plate so it is just over the shoulder of the casting. Make sure you dont pull the tortion bar out of the splines on the spine of the chassis. Then you have to twist the tortion bar to get the spring plate over the sholder.(not easey becouse you use the waight of the car to help you) But its just gues work unless you have the factory settings and tools to do it.

Sorry for the poor scetch but i hope you get the gist of it.



Andy W  img086.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.
THEBOFFIN
12 years ago

Not knowing how many splines its been droped and at whitch end is hard to say but looking at the angle of the spring plates maby just one spline on the outside fitting.
I would get the spring plate so it is just over the shoulder of the casting. Make sure you dont pull the tortion bar out of the splines on the spine of the chassis. Then you have to twist the tortion bar to get the spring plate over the sholder.(not easey becouse you use the waight of the car to help you) But its just gues work unless you have the factory settings and tools to do it.

Sorry for the poor scetch but i hope you get the gist of it.



Andy W

AW wrote:



Cheers Andy

do you know why anyone would have partially cut the front beam??...bit concerned that torsion bars may have been dammaged??...although i do have a spare standard but holed and rusty 1955 front beam!...

AW
  • AW
  • pre67vw Junkie
12 years ago
No not realy but who knows whats gone on in there if it was me i would look around for a nother axle. just for pice of mind. Thay may have cut and removed some of the laminate springs so she would sit lower but with out taking it to bits !!



Andy W
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