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Home bug painting
#1 Posted : 06 March 2013 18:50:18(UTC)
Rank: Newbie

Joined: 18/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Oxfordshire

Hi, I would like some questions answered about self-spraying a beetle at home...
1) what compressor will I need? - I've been told at least 3hp and 50 litres? - I would also need one that could be used off a normal wall socket!
2) what spray gun?
3) should I use cellulose not 2k? - yes I know the dangers of 2k.
4) what primer(s) will I need
5) is there any other equipment ill need apart from mask, overalls etc.
6) if the shell is already in red oxide (not sure how old) should I sand it off or could I spray over it?

How much would it cost me to paint it my self? - I'm not asking for a show quality paint job, just not a bad one.
I also better mention that I've never used a spray gun before so ill need to know the process, when to amply primer, which primer, colour sanding, filler etc.

Thanks.
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#2 Posted : 06 March 2013 23:39:22(UTC)
pre67vw

Rank: Administration

Joined: 28/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 3,319
Location: Cambridgshire, UK

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Welcome to the forum, you ask a lot of questions...!

1) get the biggest you can afford, the smaller the compressor the shorter the time you can spray in one go. It's possible to spray with a pretty small compressor, but you'll need to do it a panel at a time (not a bad way to start if its a solid colour)
2) There are two types, suction feed and gravity feed - suction feed has paint tin on the bottom and sucks it up, gravity has paint on the top and it naturally flows into the gun, so it depends on 1). If you have a smaller compressor then gravity feed will probably be better.
3) Cellulose. 2k is dangerous stuff so stay away from it unless you can run an air-fed mask and have good extraction fans. Many top show cars have had cellulose paint jobs in the past. It's harder to get hold of these days, but still possible.
4) Depends on the body. Personally I like 1k synthetic primer, it doesn't sink like cellulose primer, but it's getting harder to find. You might also try an isocyanate free 2k primer, it's 2k paint so still dangerous - but the most harmful stuff is not in it. Some people go for a 'deep coat' but I've never liked that stuff, it can look good for a while and then sink a few weeks later.
5) polishing compound, you'll want to colour sand it after you've sprayed. Colour sanding brings back optimism after an otherwise disappointing result with the spray gun.
6) Get a black aerosol can and dust over the car (guide coat), then wet sand it with 600 or 800 paper until all the black is gone. If you still have 100% coverage of primer then you're good to go, otherwise you'll need to prime it and repeat guide coat/sand until its all ready. The end result will depend heavily on the preparation.

Work out what you can afford and work up to that. I've seen presentable paint jobs done completely with rattle cans and the other end of the scale is multi-thousand pound paint jobs, you choose what you want/can afford Wink

Beer
Rob Amos

Happiness is a stock VW
#3 Posted : 07 March 2013 19:49:01(UTC)
Rank: Newbie

Joined: 18/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Oxfordshire

Thankyou Rob,sorry about all the questions :) but im sure there will be more to come... ;)

I definatly can't afford a muli-thousand pound paint job haha, how much is a decent gun and how much does cellulose and primer cost and how much would I need?

Ideally I'd like it to be around the £300 mark (inc. £150ish compressor?!?)as I just want a decent paint job, as the beetle I intend to buy is in just primer and i'm not sure how long it's been stood like that, posibly outside?! So do you think I would have to sand down to make sure no rust has formed or something or would you think its alright? The Wings, windows and most of interior are already removed...

Also I think I would have to spray with the body on as i've never taken the body off a beetle before as it'll be my first bug, lol... I'm not sure i'd be able to wire it all up again. BigGrin Or would you say that'd be a better choice than taking just the engine etc out as then I could properly paint it and the chassis and replace fuel lines etc? and i'd have to remove tank and steering rack anyways?

Cheers.
#4 Posted : 07 March 2013 20:08:29(UTC)
Rank: Newbie

Joined: 18/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Oxfordshire

Another question. But non paint related..... Important!...

The shell has no VIN plate!?
Should I panic or is it ok to buy, is there another way to I'd the shell? And another plate made?
#5 Posted : 07 March 2013 20:09:35(UTC)
Rank: Newbie

Joined: 18/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Oxfordshire

*ID

Thanks
#6 Posted : 07 March 2013 22:22:48(UTC)
pre67vw

Rank: Administration

Joined: 28/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 3,319
Location: Cambridgshire, UK

Thanks: 49 times
Was thanked: 50 time(s) in 39 post(s)
If the Id plate is gone then I think you'll never know the body number, but that's fairly common - the car will be registered with the chassis number.
Rob Amos

Happiness is a stock VW
#7 Posted : 07 March 2013 22:38:09(UTC)
Rank: Newbie

Joined: 18/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Oxfordshire

Thanks again BigGrin
I recall reading somewhere that there was a number stamped into the body (on an oval I think) that was bellow the tag and you could find out the info with that? or am I wrong?
Are there lots of bugs about with no id tags?
Is it not a big issue?
Would it affect the cars value alot when I end up selling the car?
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