Sunroof53
2011-05-21T17:35:15Z
The double threaded nut just allows you to position the tap correctly when its tight,but i am sure you new that.Personally i keep the nut on the tap and use a loctite thread sealant (542 i think).Tighteness is a difficult thing to put into words ,so go with what you feel is right and i always test the tank before i refit it.

Ps .Saw your car at Stanford ,very nice indeed :thumbup:
Last Triumph
2011-05-21T18:02:59Z
Sunroof53 wrote:

The double threaded nut just allows you to position the tap correctly when its tight,but i am sure you new that.Personally i keep the nut on the tap and use a loctite thread sealant (542 i think).Tighteness is a difficult thing to put into words ,so go with what you feel is right and i always test the tank before i refit it.

Ps .Saw your car at Stanford ,very nice indeed :thumbup:



Thanks.

Since it's been on the road I've had several 'first refusal' requests and 'what would you sell it for" requests, all from the US.... but I'm not sure I'd want to sell it.... unless an unwelded original paint spit bus was available... 😛

Just out of interest, is the fibre washer meant to go between the tank and the filter ring, or between the filter ring and the tap?
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
Sunroof53
2011-05-21T20:29:22Z
Last Triumph wrote:

Thanks.


Just out of interest, is the fibre washer meant to go between the tank and the filter ring, or between the filter ring and the tap?



Scan is not great but you get the idea .Picture is showing gasket either side of filter.

I would consider the offers as a compliment .i personally find once i have spent a lot of time on a car they are difficult to part with.It does seem that once you get into these cars there always seem to be 'the next one' an endless cyle of buy restore sell and buy another. You can keep buying and restoring forever but i have finally learned restraint and to be happy with what i have .


UserPostedImage
Last Triumph
2011-05-21T22:06:13Z
Hmmmm....

The NOS fuel tap I used only had 1 fibre washer. There was no other seal, as per all the pictures of them in parts catalogues.

That diagram suggests as you say there are two seals - one either side of the fuel filter which makes sense.

However, the filters only come with 1 seal.....


:mellow:
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
Sunroof53
2011-05-21T22:28:49Z
Scan is from a genuine 1958 manual but its most likely that later cars only had one seal .Personally i would fit the seal on the tap side as there is more land on the nut for it to sit on .I am guessing your original fell apart hence your confusion?.
Last Triumph
2011-05-21T23:45:52Z
Sunroof53 wrote:

Scan is from a genuine 1958 manual but its most likely that later cars only had one seal .Personally i would fit the seal on the tap side as there is more land on the nut for it to sit on .I am guessing your original fell apart hence your confusion?.




Yeah, the original one just crumbled away so I don't have a reference.


When I installed the NOS one, I instinctively put it as you suggest, washer against the tap body, but this is how it leaked.

A guy on the samba says he put his with it between the filter and the tank,

Logic tells me there should be two, but why does the tap only come with one???


EDIT:

Just found this picture from my '50's parts book which only lists 1 sealing washer (item 24) and shows it over the filter to sit between the filter ring and the tank.

Guess that clears that up then - I had it in the wrong place, hence the leak.


UserPostedImage
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
Last Triumph
2011-05-24T20:19:27Z
Whilst sniffing round for something to do, I decided to pull the other rear wing off to clean up the mating surfaces, wing beading, and then protect both the body and wing with wax sealant before reassembly.

Couldn't believe that it was even better than the other side.

Here are just a few pics I took during the clean up.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

The bumper mounts are perfect inside and out...

UserPostedImage

And the worst bit of rust on the entire car is this little area of surface corrosion which i wire brushed clean then sealed...

UserPostedImage

:D
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
Sunroof53
2011-05-25T11:45:14Z
Deleted post ,

Mike.
Last Triumph
2011-05-25T12:09:43Z
I'm going to struggle with those two to be fair - the wing and deck lid are both on the car hindering a straight line with the tape.

Can you think of any other reference point that could be taken on a fully assembled car?
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
Sunroof53
2011-05-25T14:53:09Z
Last Triumph wrote:

I'm going to struggle with those two to be fair - the wing and deck lid are both on the car hindering a straight line with the tape.

Can you think of any other reference point that could be taken on a fully assembled car?



Thanks for looking ,i will try on the Samba and i will take the photos off your thread .

Mike.
Last Triumph
2011-05-25T23:23:19Z
Had the day off work today having worked a load of weekends recently so tackled a few little 'outstanding jobs'

First up was the little fuel leak. Nothing to see here other than a new filter screen and sealing washer )in the correct place this time) which fixed it straight away.

Obviously I had to road test it.... :D

After dinner, I couldn't resist a bit more time in the garage so decided to investigate the last undiscovered part of the car - inside the doors.

The reason I chose to do this was due to endless complaints and reminders from my wingman, Smull who during our drive to Stanford Hall complained bitterly and endlessly about the passenger door window winder mechanism which to be fair, due to lack of use was one step away from failure.

So.... off with the door card and into a world of beautiful undisturbed originality!

First up - check out the original wax paper lining!


UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage


Now check out the factory '57 chalk marking and small 'anti rattle' squares of the original carpet on the door!


UserPostedImage


The next discovery was the best of all.... the original red vinyl sample square, tucked in the bottom of the door!


UserPostedImage


I took the opportunity to clean out the bottom of the doors and inspect what was what - you know, just in case...


UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage


Absolutely un-bloody-believable!


So cracked open yet another can of wax sealant spray and flooded the bottoms of the doors.


UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage


This little car never ceases to thrill...

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
cupa65
2011-05-26T19:43:57Z
Are you selling it then?
Last Triumph
2011-05-26T20:37:17Z
cupa65 wrote:

Are you selling it then?




There's the million dollar question.....

I've had a some very tempting offers from across the pond, but in all honesty, I wonder what the point in selling it would be.

How could I replace it, and what would I replace it with?

I guess if the price is right, almost everything is for sale, but at this stage I don't feel I've had enough fun with it yet considering how long I searched for it and the amount of me I've put into it.

As they say, money talks, but if I did, it would be a very sad day indeed.


I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
cupa65
2011-05-26T22:58:50Z
Hi

If you want to keep it in the UK and have a value in mind PM me.

I would be very interested and serious about a 50's car, and yes I would keep it standard and covered in Techtyl:smile: :smile:
Last Triumph
2011-05-26T23:15:53Z
cupa65 wrote:

Hi

If you want to keep it in the UK and have a value in mind PM me.

I would be very interested and serious about a 50's car, and yes I would keep it standard and covered in Techtyl:smile: :smile:



I'll keep that in mind should the day ever come.

I must take this opportunity to publicly thank you for recommending Tectyl to me - it is simply the best thing in the world and knocks the spots of any other similar product I've ever come across. :thumbup:

There are only two cars I'd sell it for - either a pre '69 Type 1 Ghia, or a split bus - both would have to be 'similar' in providence to the oval - or at least, standard and unwelded.

I've another VW project in mind that could run along side the Oval, but I doubt it would be of any interest to the fine people of pre'67.
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
cupa65
2011-05-27T00:22:20Z
Go on then, what other vw is it?
Last Triumph
2011-05-27T07:19:59Z
cupa65 wrote:

Go on then, what other vw is it?



I'm going to convert a 1303 by building a semi space frame double wishbone rear end loosly based around a modified version of the rear end of an Ultima GTR to mid mount a 500bhp small block 383ci stroker SBC on a G50 with the aim of having a street legal '10 second' drag car.

Been planning and researching it for years.

You did ask... :beer:
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...
cupa65
2011-05-27T09:03:28Z
I'll swop you for my mid engined 1303:roll:
topolino
2011-05-27T14:21:45Z
mid engined smallblock chevy, been in one in the states many years ago ,it turned up at a streetrod event even though it was not a rod, quick off the mark with a 355ci but car was to light and not enough rubber to make it have good traction plus the round shape of a bug creates lift, at 85 mph he had to back off as front end went so light(it was trying to fly)thats with front mounted radiator and balast added,the street legal part in the UK modifying beyond the DVLA points system will bring you within a BIVA test , not the end of the world but just be aware of this before you start spending any money.
Last Triumph
2011-05-27T14:57:46Z
topolino wrote:

mid engined smallblock chevy, been in one in the states many years ago ,it turned up at a streetrod event even though it was not a rod, quick off the mark with a 355ci but car was to light and not enough rubber to make it have good traction plus the round shape of a bug creates lift, at 85 mph he had to back off as front end went so light(it was trying to fly)thats with front mounted radiator and balast added,the street legal part in the UK modifying beyond the DVLA points system will bring you within a BIVA test , not the end of the world but just be aware of this before you start spending any money.



Thanks for the comments.

I've been researching and refining the design for many years and have a well thumbed and heavily read copy of the BIVA manual by my bed.

Traction is all about the size and type of rubber along with the suspension design, weight and weight distribution. Car would weigh approx the same as an Ultima GTR and would have much wider than stock tyres. Works perfectly well on the Ultima.

There are 400+ bhp Beetle drag cars all over the world with sufficient traction when set up correctly, plus the SBC/G50 combination is significantly heavier than the Type 1 motor and trans.

I'm not flipently dismissing your very valid points, other than to say I have done extensive and in depth research into many mid engined road and track cars examining their individual set ups and configurations.

As for 85mph lift - yes, you are absolutely correct, but like the numerous drag cars that regularly run at speeds of way over 130mph - with the correct wings, nose spoilers, rake angle, suspension set up and holes, grill, slots and louvres positioned in the appropriate place on curved panels, lift can be reduced and stability increased by a significant margin.

:thumbup:
I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...