There's a chap called Glenn on TheSamba who refurbishes old Bosch distributors (https://www.glenn-ring.com/bosch/ ), I think he's the person you are looking for.

---

Yes, talk to Glen first. I think an 009 isn´t really ideal for what you´re planning anyway. Ask GLen what the best one to use would be. I´m thinking an 019 or an 010.

---

Looking good. Not sure what fanshroud you will use? Maybe I missed that in the thread?

If you use one without the airducts for the heating that centerswivel will work. If not it might get pretty tight to get the linkage work.

Edit: Yes, I did miss it but saw it now. Early style will work just fine. :wink:

---

Looking great so far - as for distributor options, I had got a rebuilt Bosch BR25 (same advance curve as an 010) from Glenn Ring for our 1385 40hp vintage speed motor - works like a dream, excellent job and a very helpful guy

---

Today I put new rings on and put the heads back on, it's looking like an engine again :d No pics though, nothing was very interesting :wink:

---

Nice progress!

Im thinking of making a twin carb setup for my ickle 1200. More because I could do it for my A level D&T coursework. :lol:

If I do however, they may have to be 'shelved' for a few years, maybe for when insurance is a little less bonkers. :wink:

Post more pics, nothing 'old speed' related is boring to me. 😎

---

Some tips for the linkage:

The balljoint on the pivot arms on the carbs. (both type-3 and 4) are in wrong position to be able to work with a centermount linkage so to make that work you need to weld a new location or make a totally new arm for each carb which locates the palljoint to appr. 10:30 oth the left carb and to appr 01:30 on the rightcarb at idle.

Like this:

(you still see the original balljoint, and the new balljoint is now located on the flatmetalpiece above it)

At idle:


Full throttle:


At idle here to:


Edit: Oh! and you also see the 20mm thick bakelite spacers I made for lifting my carbs some just to (hopefully) clear the aircleaners from the fanshroud and body... 😉

---

Cleaned my carbs up today, blasted them with bicarbonate of soda... This is kind of a before and after shot...  IMG_3481.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

Here are the two carbs done with air filters in place. Still need two rebuild kits to replace the gaskets and diaphrams etc... But I'm pleased with them :beer:  IMG_3488.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

While I had the bicarb out, I thought I'd clean up this carb as well...  IMG_3483.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

Been working on the linkage as well, the ends are done - just need to sort out the centre part next.  IMG_3486.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

This is the left carb, cut off part of the lever and moved it 90 degrees and welded it back on.  IMG_3490.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

Looking good! :wink:

---

Been busy with the bottom tinware today, cleaning all the sludge off them - blasting the rusty bits and re-painting. Also cleaned up the generator stand and sorted out the centre linkage for the carbs. I'll Take another pic when the tinware is back on the engine.

Once all that is back on, the next job will be installing the fram filter :d

---

Some good progress today, might even be able to get it back in the car next weekend - that would be great if I could...

Next job is plumbing in the Fram filter and Okrasa cooler.  IMG_6689copy.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

Looks Nice Rob8)

Ah F***

oil return bolt snapped off putting it in. Didn't feel tight at all...

How the hell am I going to get that out and where can I get a replacement?

Bugger, Bugger, Bugger  IMG_6690.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

---

Rob,i had something very similar happen,cut a slot with a Dremil and turned it out with a screw-driver.

Don't Panic

We had a oil pressure switch shear off once :roll:

we used a snap on tool that screws in and then screws everything out, another tick we have done is to sharpen a piece of hard wood, tap it in with a mallet and the screw it out by hand.

failing that you could always tack weld a bolt onto it :twisted: (done that too)


Mail us we have some spare return bolts we machined a while ago :d

Thanks for the suggestions, it was good to step away from it a while and think about it before I made it worse!

I've got one of those things with a left hand thread that screws in that is supposed to then unscrew the stud, it's in and tight but it only has a 3mm end on it and I don't have anything to turn it with. I'll leave it for now and try and get something that will turn it and see how that goes.

---