Sunroof53
2010-05-21T19:20:59Z
Did you get this sorted Rob?
pre67vw
2010-05-21T22:59:15Z
Sunroof53 wrote:

Did you get this sorted Rob?



Nope, it's a complete **** up. My easy-out broke off in the hole. Tried cutting slots but no use, welded some 20 bolts to it but they just twist off and if anything has made it worse. So I don't think I have any alternative at this stage but to take it all apart, split the case and try and attack it from the inside :cry:
Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
Sunroof53
2010-05-22T00:25:31Z
pre67vw wrote:

Nope, it's a complete **** up. My easy-out broke off in the hole. Tried cutting slots but no use, welded some 20 bolts to it but they just twist off and if anything has made it worse. So I don't think I have any alternative at this stage but to take it all apart, split the case and try and attack it from the inside :cry:





Post a picture of what you have .You can also try knocking the easy out from side to side using a small centre punch to loosen it.A die grinder with a small stone might remove the easy out .Sounds like work but rebuilding the engine may actually be quicker and less risk of doing damage ,especially if you try and drill it while the case is still together.Downside to dissmantling is you could end up replacing more stuff unless the engine is very low mileage.
I know this kind of thing can be frustrating but keep your spirits up 😎

Personally if its really stuck i would just get on a strip it .A couple of hours and it will be in pieces .you could then try with a small punch to knock out the easyout from behind,but unless you have a large drilling machine or acces to a milling machine dont try and drill it yourself.the case needs to be clamped rigid ,Take it to a machine shop as they will be used to this kind of thing .

Good luck

Mike

pre67vw
2010-05-22T00:38:47Z
Sunroof53 wrote:

Post a picture of what you have .



Yep, I was originally reluctant to do any drilling as I didn't want the bits to fall inside. But if I take it apart, knock the easy out -out, then I could maybe drill the hole bigger and then try a larger easy out that is less likely to break (hopefully)
pre67vw attached the following image(s):

Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
54 Gertie
2010-05-22T01:01:21Z
A bit of a long shot...

I cant picture how the block is layed out in this area, but could you get somthing down the fuelpump pushrod hole, behind the stud? So you could stop any metal from drilling falling into the engine.

Another idea, worth trying drilling the centre (not through) and wedging in a drill bit or something, then you can get mole grips on to get it turning?
William
pre67vw
2010-05-22T01:21:15Z
Trouble is that the easy out is hardened, so there's no chance of drilling it - it needs to come out somehow
Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
Hebster52
2010-05-22T09:13:48Z
Just check for some hardened drillbits. I drilled out a threadtap (or what they are called) with a Bosch hardmetal drill that I found form the local supermarket. I was surpriced on how good those drills are. I even can drill in the coldpressed cheramic plates where normal cheramic drills just burn.. :shock:
GKL 7
2010-05-22T10:38:53Z
Hebster52 wrote:

I drilled out a threadtap (or what they are called) with a Bosch hardmetal drill that I found form the local supermarket.



I bought some of these from B&Q they really are very good.
pre67vw
2010-05-22T18:51:04Z
Well a friend said something to me this morning - 'out of all bad comes some good', this was going round in my head all day - followed by some swearing etc...

Now I have the case apart, and it turns out that on my case - the distributor screw just goes into solid metal, so it wouldn't return oil anyway :evil: Obviously I did a load of reading before I started and didn't see anywhere that said this might be the situation. So now in addition to getting the distributor screw out, I'll have to sort out some other oil return. Fuel pump bolts go through into the case, or I've seen one Okrasa that had the oil return into the generator stand which also might be an option.

pre67vw attached the following image(s):

Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
lifeintheslowlane
2010-05-22T18:56:32Z
Yep you can simply drill and tap the pedestal.
John.
Sunroof53
2010-05-23T00:01:02Z
Blind hole would explain why it broke in the first place.Now the case is apart it might be worth thinking about tapping the case for full flow .
pre67vw
2010-05-28T09:32:01Z
Picked up my case from the machine shop this morning, all fixed. Looks like they heli-coiled it. So looks like I'll be busy tomorrow trying to get back on track.

Hopefully there will be no more expensive cock-ups along the way :roll:

Still need to figure out where the oil is going to go back in the case now that I know I can't use the distributor stud. I was thinking about the side of the pedestal, but have been told it's not a good idea because the metal gasket at the bottom of it will slow the oil returning. Need to find other later cases with Frams fitted to find out what they have done...
Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
Hebster52
2010-05-28T10:48:10Z
Wouldn't it be possible to return the oil in the oilpressure sensor hole? In that case you could replace the type-1 doghouse oilcooler with a type-3 oilcooler instead. They are basically the same just one difference. The type three coolers have a mountinghole for the oilpressure sensor instead of having it in the case... ;)

Or you could use that hole for return? Don't know if it works, just giving you some ideas? :)

Like this: ;)

UserPostedImage
pre67vw
2010-05-28T11:06:48Z
Hebster52 wrote:

Wouldn't it be possible to return the oil in the oilpressure sensor hole?



No because that's where the oil comes from to go into the filter...
Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
54 Gertie
2010-05-28T11:48:17Z
Why cant you simply drill/tap the hole for the distributor clamp?

Also, I have seen oil return lines go through a hollow generator pedastal stud...?
William
pre67vw
2010-05-28T11:57:24Z
54 Gertie wrote:

Why cant you simply drill/tap the hole for the distributor clamp?



That's the one I snapped off, it doesn't go through to the inside - there's a big lump on the inside by one of the main bearings. The early cases must be slightly different there.

54 Gertie wrote:


Also, I have seen oil return lines go through a hollow generator pedastal stud...?



Got any pics?
Rob Amos
Happiness is a stock VW
Hebster52
2010-05-28T12:42:36Z
pre67vw wrote:

No because that's where the oil comes from to go into the filter...



I started suspecting that while writing my previous post. Just thought I'd post it anyways. Why not mount a type-3 oilcooled on it then just for the return? Or maybe you will be filtering the same oil over and over again without returning it into the enginecase again... :lol:
54 Gertie
2010-05-28T13:15:23Z
pre67vw wrote:

That's the one I snapped off, it doesn't go through to the inside - there's a big lump on the inside by one of the main bearings. The early cases must be slightly different there.



Got any pics?



Oh, as you say im sure ive seen this work before, but I think it was 30 horse. After typing that, yes, have just found it on Oval56's 30 horse.


UserPostedImage

And another...

UserPostedImage

I cant find (yet) any photos of a hollow generator stand stud. I think it is how it will be returing on this rather blurry Okrasa 34 horse engine.


UserPostedImage
William
54 Gertie
2010-05-28T13:21:56Z
Here you go, Vicpolky's '65 1200 ('64 coded case), oil return from Fram going through a pedastal stud. :wink:

UserPostedImage
William
54 Gertie
2010-05-28T13:24:41Z
UserPostedImage

Quote:

Mr Wob oil lines plumbed in...


William