Yes but you may have to wait a while though. Don't forget there's other's capable of doing a good job of it...Ben Lewis or Gavin Jones to name but two.

Brill. Do you have any contact details?

Volkswagen One on One Restorations Unit 13 Barnfield Business Centre, Brunswick St, Nelson, Lancashire BB9 0HT
Tel: 01282 606080

Just spoken to Chris who will do my seat for me.

Oh, and my wife just callaed to tell me that the NOS front mount has arrived!!!!

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if your mount isnt correct or fancy a spare there is a nos one on restowagen for 13 pounds(i assume its right one?)

https://www.restowagenuk.com/forums.html 

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Cheers.

It's NOS from House of Ghia so should be the right one!

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LT, you need to clear your Inbox...

:wink:

Dave

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D'oh!


All done! :oops:

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Well, the post man has finally arrived, and boy was it worth waiting for as all sorts of NOS goodness awaited me when I got home from work!

First up, what we've all be waiting for - the NOS front transmission mount!





Which surprise, surprise, fits like a glove with no twist. Lesson learned! I made sure to clean up the areas where the earth strap mounts for a good contact, then once assembled, re-coated with sealing wax.





At this point, I'd like to mention the fabulous service I received from 'House of Ghia' who supplied the mount. I told them it had not turned up when it was late and Mike immediately apologised and set off to find and secure me another one, which he did, and then offered to send it to me free of charge! What a star! The first one turned up the day he was due to post it so we saved it just in time - thanks Mike.

Ant what other goodies arrived...?

How's about a NOS steering coupling?





I was not sleeping well with the fact that I'd fitted a rerpo cable conduit rubber boot a few weeks ago, so when the chance arrived, I grabbed it - NOS!!!





And my favourite bit so far....? This beautiful NOS screw terminal brake light switch.





Which would not be at home without it's little friend, the screw terminal oil pressure switch.





Finally, a nice stash of SG profile key blanks for when I get my new ignition switch and other locks all matched up for the one key.





Anyway - enough present opening, time for some action! If you recall, the transmission kind of came out in a bit of a hurry and no pictures were taken of the removal, so for those that want to know, this is a step by step guide of how to remove / install a VW transmission. In this picture sequence, we are fitting it, to remove it, do everything in reverse!

With the new mount and earth strap fitted, I lifted the box of the engine stand and rested it on my new high lift jack.





This jack as a low entry point and is typical of much smaller jacks with an entry height of approx 125mm or 5". I calculated that to get the transmission under the rear valance whilst resting on the jack, a floor to valance clearance of approx 200mm or 20" is required. To lift the rear of the car this high I used my new monster axle stand which lift plenty high enough.





Once you have wheeled the trans far enough forward to put the bell housing roughly in the middle of the engine bay, raise the trans up to it's correct height and roll it forward a little so it is about 8" rear of where it will end up. At this point you need to engage the bowden tube for the clutch cable in the support bracket on top of the transmission casing. You will not be able to do this if you bolt the trans in position first!





Notice the new rubber boot on the end of the tube to keep moisture and dirt out of the cable conduit...





This is a good time to fit the rear cross member and engine mounts. I used new genuine VW items which were very nice quality. To make sure there is no undue stress put on the mounts, it is recommended that the mounts are tightened to the bell housing case first, then once the front mount is tightened, then tighten the mounts to the cross member, then finally the cross member to the frame.





Once the mounts are in position and the bowden tube is located correctly, slowly and gently push the transmission forwards keeping the selector shaft at the end of the nose cone lined up with the entry hole in between the frame forks. If should slide 'home' with little effort at all - if you end up having to man handle it, stop - something is not right - go back and make sure nothing is getting fouled up.





Making sure the transmission is still level, you can now secure the front mount using the two outer mounting nuts.





And as stated earlier, the rear cross member can be bolted to the frame horns. The transmission is now supported and secure so the jack can now be removed. And there it is, back in it's rightful home once again!







With the transmission back in place, I next connected up the gear linkage rod using the original coupler and square headed bolts. These have a hole in them to allow the fitment of some security wire to prevent them coming undone. The 'orange' in the picture is a combination of copper grease and amber sealing wax!





Next up I replaced the wiring loom to the started motor solenoid, again making sure to clean the terminals for good contact before re-sealing them with wax.





Then it was time to refit the two nuts to the end of the clutch cable - these will be set up and adjusted properly when the motor is back in.





And last but not least, after giving them a quick clean up, but not over the top, I refitted the spring plates to the ends of the axle tubes.





In my next update, I hope to be showing some progress with the hubs and brakes etc.

That's all for now folks!

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Did you know Vw classic parts centre do keys cut to codes?

We do those at KK, on original style blanks!!

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I do now! :thumbup:

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Good stuff.

The original key from '57 is the VW logo cut out as per the ones I've bought.

I didn't want to get them to code as I'm not exactly sure whether I'll be matching the door and deck lid to the ignition, or vice versa. Once I know what I'm doing, I'll get them cut to match the one I've got.

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Did you know Vw classic parts will cut Nos keys to key codes.

I do now! :d

Luckily, so will Mr Minute...

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Relax boys 'n girls - I'm still alive!

Spent the last two evenings cleaning up, preparing and assembling all four brake backing plates and hardware ready to be assembled on to the car.

Yet again, the temptation to get the backing plates shot blasted and powder coated was making me tremble, but true to the cause, I resisted and stuck to clean and preserve.

The front backing plates had a scrub and the rear sides wax coated.







One of the greatest yields from the NOS cave of mystery are the ATE wheel cylinders which I'd been looking forward to releasing from their wax paper cocoon since I first discovered them. A pair of 10mm bolts and spring washers secures them in their new home.








I reassembled the brass adjusters after a thorough cleaning and with copper grease on both the threads and also the outer body that sits in the mounting fixture, fitted them next. No way these suckers are gonna seize!







I then cleaned up the handbrake lever on the rear brakes along with it's securing pin and using a new horse shoe clip, fitted it to the new brake shoe.







At this point I decided that it would be wise to replace the original springs that hold and locate the shoes with new items, but not before a slight modification.

If you look at this first picture, the spring on the left is an original item where the spring on the right is the new replacement. Notice how the original spring has a ground flat face so it sits evenly on the surface of the brake shoe and inside the location cup where as the new item just has perpendicular chopped ends?





This would never do, so I spent some time grinding the ends of the new springs smooth and flat to give greater seating stability when in service. In this second picture, the new ground spring is the one on the left. Also note how it is a little longer than the original, which had compressed over time.





Next up it was time to prepare the brake shoes by filing a small 5mm chamfer across the ends of the friction material to get a better and more predictable initial bite when they are new before they wear in to shape.







A small dab of copper grease will help the shoes float in their location slots when in position.





Then using the new springs, the shoes are fitted next...





Followed by a full set of new return springs... leaving this particular backing plate complete.





And finally, all four brake assemblies are ready to be installed once their associated parts are ready which is what we'll be doing next...





Hope that scratches the itch for now?

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Keep up the good work!!!

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I was under the impression that the friction material was largely asbestos, not the safest material to be filing?

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On new shoes it's no problem, they go to the effort to say 'Does not contain Asbestos' on the box, but as I'm guessing these shoes are ones that have sat around for 30 years, I wouldn't be at all surprised...

I was about to say the very same thing coincidentally.

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I did try and find NOS brakes but gave up - these are brand new asbestos free.

Still got the originals to clean and love! :oops:

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Right then - bit more progress for you...

Please forgive this rather dull and photo hungry post, it's just that often, step by step, component by component pictures of a procedure can be very helpful so here goes...

With the brakes now built up on the backing plates, it was now time to build up the rear hubs and bearings and here's how I chose to do it.

First up was to give all the original components a thorough clean, especially the bearing. This was done in a pot of brake cleaner. The rear bearings were in perfect condition with no slop, play or grittiness.





Another extremely convenient find from the NOS abyss was a pair of rear axle and hub seal kits. Splendid!





Here are all the components laid out in the order they will be fitted with the outside on the left.





First assembly part is to fit the new outer seal into the bearing carrier. It is essential that the bearing goes in to the correct depth and most importantly to prevent leaks, it must be 'square' and true in the housing. Pounding this in with a hammer is not an option, and as I didn't have access to the press in work, I had to be inventive.

A rather fortunate discovery was that the outer race of one of the front wheel bearings is the exact same size as the seal...





Which means that with careful planning, I could use this as a 'press' with my vice to insert the seal. To prevent damage to the bearing carrier, I faced it with a black of wood and using the front bearing race, carefully and slowly eased it into position. I found this a very satisfying and controlled way to do it. Make sure the seal is well oiled before you try and insert it as it's a tight fit.







This seal fits at a precise depth in the carrier and Bentley specify it must be within 4.75mm and 5.00mm of the top of the shoulder. Now - the worst thing you can ever give me is a tolerance like that, as I then spent..... lets just say, 'far too long' making sure that it was absolutely bang in the middle all the way round the seal, but not one to give up, I got it just about perfectly in the middle.... Just can't help it.







And there it is, ready for the next stage. Gotta love original blue VW seals.





And so - to the rear axle area which is bear, thoroughly clean and hungry for parts.





At this point we'll assume that every part fitted is perfectly clean and oiled when fitted. First on the shaft is the inner spacer who's curved side butts up against the machined radius on the axle.







Followed by the first paper gasket to seal the axle tube to the back of the backing plate. I coated it with Curil K2 sealant to be extra secure.





Followed by the bearing...





Then the bearing washer...







Followed by the inner O-ring seal...







Which sits in the chamfered recess on the main outer spacer...







Which allows the main brake backing plate to be offered up in to position, but is just resting in place...





Then the larger outer O ring seal fits in the space between a machined recess between the backing plate and the axle tube housing...







Which now allows it all to be held in place by bolting on the main seal and bearing housing, which also has a gasket...







Torque these four 14mm bolts up in a criss cross pattern to gently ease the inner lip of the seal over the outer spacer ring to form the main oil seal. These get torqued to 30 ft lbs.





At this point I quickly flipped the shoes downwards to fit the handbrake cable to the lever arm and secured the support bracket for the handbrake in place leaving us with a finished rear brake!





The cleaned drum went on perfectly and all is well!





The other side is just the same and is also all complete now.

Like I say, sorry for the dullness, but it might just be a help to anyone who is maybe a little intimidated about how this lot all fits together.

As long as you take your time, make sure everything is clean and oiled and goes on straight, it's really not a difficult job.

That's all for now folks!

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