Hello Fellas'
Many thanks for the replies. I'm confident it is hooked up ok, I've built up a lot of 30 horse engines over the last 30 years but definitely still have a lot to learn about sucking eggs :wink: . It's an interesting thought that the bracket might be bending, what I haven't done is look form underneath whilst revving the engine to see if there's anything going on down there that might explain what's happening. I guess it's possible that the bellows are fatigued and there's maybe a bit more flex in them than there should be, or as you chaps have suggested, there might be a loose bracket or bending operating rod.
I'll have another check over the weekend, which will be my next opportunity to get into the garage, and then report back.
Thanks again for your input!
Mike 😎
Mike Peckham wrote:
Mike - just for the record - mine did exactly the same as you reported.
Not sure if there is actually a fault or if this is a design charactaristic.... here's my thinking.
When I installed the mechanism, I held a hair dryer in the heater box until the thermostat was fully open agains the braket and set the top ring gap at the correct 20mm.
I then tested it a few times and got the same readings of 20mm - this is because the mechanism is locked solid against the thermostat bracket end stop and cannot physically open further, hence accurate and repetitive readings.
This tells me that the theromstat and the linkage mechanism is working correctly.
I don't know about you, but when I ran my engine for the first time, it was 4 degrees outside and very chilly, and although the car had been idling for some time and had been driven up and down the road a few times, I wouldn't have called it 'stinking hot' by any stretch.
Following your initial post above, I thought I'd check mine which was when I discovered that mine was sucking closed too...!
However..... despite running and idling for a good while, my air horn ring gap at the top was not 20mm away from the housing - probably barely half that.... which means that the thermostat is not fully expanded within it's mount and is therefore not providing the same force as it would when it was fully hot, as with the hair dryer which had it on the end stop.
This means that there is insufficient force from the stat (at this temp) to overcome the return spring force and it is therefore closing shut under vacuum - which will hinder cooling and make the engine run hotter..... which will apply more force to the thermosstat until it eventually gets hot enough to overcome the force of the return spring and stay open the prescribed 20mm.
That's my theory anyway.
The only alternative would be to set the ring further round the shaft so there was less initial spring retuirn tension on it for the stat to overcome, but this means that if it got any hotter, it might open further than the 20mm and then foul the fan with that horrible screeching noise - hence you set it at 20mm with the bellows fully expanded.
To test this theory, next time I run it, I'll hit the stat with the hair dryer as well to make sure it gets properly hot and opens fully leaving no doubr over whether the engine temp is relevant or not. If it no longer closes under vaccum, my theory is correct - if it still closes undere vacuum, I need to rethink the process.
Have you come to any conclusions or had any successful investigations?
Cheers,
Andy
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