welbster11
19 years ago
I have an original 1962 beetle and after getting caught in a rainy day last summer have spotted two bubbles of rust appear at the bottom of the drivers door.

Having taken the door panel off there is rust on the inside of the door along the bottom that needs neutralising totally.

I have used Kurust (I think it is called or something similar!) before and it seems ok, but decided to take a search for others and found Fertan (www.fertan.co.uk), anyone used this or recommend another?

Thanks
Welbster11
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j.scribner
19 years ago
Ouch, that's a tricky one... we have several proprietary rust treatments available here in the states, and I've used several with pretty good results. The trick is to eliminate the source of the moisture and then seal the damaged area with a good overcoat of something to keep the rust from returning. POR-15 is probably the gold standard in this part of the world, and requires several steps to get the best possible results. Also pricey. Now- having just restored my '64 (from Phoenix, Arizona- about as dry a clime as you can get!) with exactly the same problem, can I make a few suggestions? Check the inside bottom of the door. Old VW's had some kind of noise dampener glued to the inside of the door. After decades it usually gets wet, rotted, and falls to the bottom of the door, blocking the drain holes in the area, and holding moisture like a sponge. Result? Small rust-throughs that don't look like much until you start digging into them, and then they become mini-Grand Canyons. I had to have new metal welded in to replace the rotted-out sheet metal, when only pin-holes originally showed from the outside. My guess is that your damage didn't just show up after one exposure to rain, but has been insidiously happening for decades. Check all your door seals and inner and outer scrapers. SOME water will ALWAYS get by them, thus the need to keep the drain holes open. Replace them if they are dried out or missing. Be prepared to find more than you think when you get into the door. If you just try to quick-fix it inside and out, it will come back again and be worse.
Good Luck!
John Scribner
welbster11
19 years ago
:D

Thanks for the info.

I have checked inside the door and as you say cleaned it out made sure drains are clear etc, also there was a white material in each corner like a panel sealer that is original and with the rust under it I removed easily.

At the back of the bubbles on the front there is rust there so I'm sure there will be a small hole or two there. The rust is bear so everytime it is wet the results appear for themselves!

I want to neutralise the rust to stop it where it is.

I'll check out the POR product you mention.

Thanks
Marc.
Welbster11
scooterdoc
17 years ago
I'd recommend the Bilt hamber range, they do some pretty heavy duty rust killers, make Kurust etc look rather weak


6v and 12v bulbs for sale on my web site, plus great tin signs, models, memorabilia and more

www.autocamp.org.uk
simonhanloncole
17 years ago
Kurust by Hammerite won best rust convertor in Practical Classics a few months ago they tested about 10 different products. Best to rub down traet with Kurust then spray with Waxoyl all over inside panels and chassis and axle frame, do this spray every 1 or 2 years. once rust has taken hold you will never stop it without cuttting the panel away. Waxoyl masks over the rust and stops it spreading by not letting moisture in. If you treat and paint it it will come back within a few years.

Simon
mrsherbie
17 years ago

and after getting caught in a rainy day last summer

"welbster11" wrote:


Thats a great line! :lol: :lol:

have spotted two bubbles of rust appear at the bottom of the drivers door.

"welbster11" wrote:


I have a bit of rust here too.

Best to rub down traet with Kurust then spray with Waxoyl
Simon

"simonhanloncole" wrote:


I'm kurust then smoothrite grey primer(not sure I need this too but heyho!) then Tectyl ( like waxoyl) for inside the bottom of the doors. Never tried Por15. Going to check Bilt Hamber out too. Thanks
:D
"it'll wreck the patina you haven't worked so hard to create" - 50Karmann
lee ivatt
17 years ago
Hi, the best thing you can do as was suggested is to cut out the problem area and weld a new skin back in. But im aware many people dont have the time, or possibly indeed the tools to do this?
Im assuming the door is not rotten, but just surface rust?
The next best thing would be to sandblast the area then paint it with a zinc primer, before then going on the high build primer (to fill in rust pit holes) then your top coat/ or indeed somethink like waxoil if its on the inner side if the door.
If you have a compresser or a mate has one then this it is worth doing it! A sandblasting gun is about £10/15 from somewhere like screwfix. And indeed compressers are now realitivly cheap, half decent ones are as little as £200 these days. A worth while investment.
The compresser can then also be used for spraying as this is a much better way of painting, using a brush leaves marks and more importantly can trap air and moisture bubbles in the paint.
Hope this was helpful?
Oh and hi Anna hope your split resto is going well, just giving mine a coat of bordeaux red at the moment, ummmmm!! 😎
Past Restorations

1954 International Tractor-----1971 1200 Orange Beetle-----1985 Mk3 Escort S1 RS TURBO
1972 1600 VW Camper-----1969 MK1 Escort Mexico RS-----1949 Standard Beetle (incompleted)
1993 Escort Cosworth 4x4 350bhp---1970 1300 Orange Beetle---1971 Aston Martin DBS Vantage
1992 Mk Golf GTI 16v (2.8 VR6 conversion-----1982 MK3 Escort RS 1600i (restored twice!!)
1987 Sierra 3dr Cosworth to concourse--1968 1300 Red Beetle--1967 1500 Lotus White Beetle
1972 1200, Orange beetle (yes I like orange!)

Currently restoring

1958 old english white golge rag top--- 1992 mk3 Golf VR6
scooterdoc
17 years ago
That rust bullet is pretty good too

6v and 12v bulbs for sale on my web site, plus great tin signs, models, memorabilia and more

www.autocamp.org.uk