computers are not my thing

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computers are not my thing

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Can see it :!: :lol: :lol: :lol:

:twisted: ET (the mean one)

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lever shocks...  8154.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

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Gearbox...  8155.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

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Just the file size which was stopping you posting the pics Lee.
Just resize them to around 700 pixels across and they should work fine.

Malc

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Thanks Malc.

So the lever shocks, ive been told these are quite hard to come across??
The internals are almost identical to triumph TR4/5 units so hopefully i should be able to find a triumph specialist to restore and calibrate these.

As for the gearbox it seems to be in good condition, its been covered in swedish grease for 58 years so is well preserved, do i crack it open or plumb it in first? The chap i bought it from said it was working fine when he bought his split (hes going down the 2.0l turbo route, as i was doing before you turned me).

Got all these for £150, is that about right or did they see me coming?

Ive found a 1949 engine in beligum, do you think ill have some change from the £15,000 ive been told it could cost me after buying and shipping!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Still need an entire steering mechanism from box to steering wheel, and the little fixings which attatch the lever shocks to the drive shaft casing!

Bit of subject, do any of you know any decent re-chroming companies. Tha aston bumpers are in desperate need of some tlc!

Kind Regards
Lee Ivatt

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Derby Plating Services
148 Abbey St
Derby
01332 382408

Not Cheap,but top notch.

I have just recieved this email, please could you let me know your thoughts. Im tempted to use the '48 as its near ready to bolt in?Help!

["Hi,
I have a naked block nr. 1-143952 that I do need for my cars. It should be summer 1949 - you can check yourself from the many refrences in the web. I have also a complete running engine nr. 1-115985 (1948 I recall). This is an A engine (Austauch) which typically means that it is an exchange block that has got the og. engine number of the car stamped to it. When the block itself was manufactured is impossible to know. I can check if it is visually same as my 49 block if you are interested. I am not a 49 specialist. My cars are 51 and 52 so I do not know of details like air cleaners and such for 49 but if you are interested I have T-cleaners, D-relays and some Star coils. Basically all but correct inlet manifold (or should it be called a collector) for your car. I also have nearly mint condition 1953 24,5ps industrial engines. They need 2 piece cylinder tin, ve4brs383 distributor, maybe 8mm fuel lines (have to check) and a seamed shroud to be visually correct. The carbs (Solex 26 VFIS) need to have other jets to produce the required 24,5hp.
I also have a unnumbered complete 24,5ps engine that has got some wind and rain during the years but it is not blocked and seems to have nice compression. Actually there are so many possibilities it is better you let me know what you want. A ready to install engine (53 ind), a nice looking running 48 that I would open and check for wear or the 49 block and the required ugly parts. Let me know what you are interested in and I will send you pictures and start considering the price.

I also have a std km speedo if you need one and NOS SWf wipers with bases for your car if you need a set. I also have NOS engine parts like set of std pistons and cylinders, cylinder heads, cranks, og VW valves etc but they are so expensive that I believe nobody really uses them anymore for other purpose than collecting.

For the other parts like brake cables it is easier if you let me know what you need and I'll send you the links. I have plenty of time living in Bru and having my projects back home in Finland. (I do have 99,9% of the parts mentioned in this mail here in Bru and I am going home in the end of the month for two weeks so I can bring something if needed).

If I were you I would build the engine from the 49 block and a complete engine. Saves you a lot of trouble hunting bolts and spacers."]

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Hmmm, lots to think about there! :shock:

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Ok ive recieved even more emails and pictures. below should be a picture of the "49 Block"
eng no 1-0143952 (july 49?) with the word Zundfolge and 1432 (firing order) underneath. I chaps english is a bit confusing in places but from what i can tell this is a recon with the original 49 number grafted in? Am i right and is this worth taking on?



This is the third email, though he requested i didnt use the pics in this one and he remain anomous due to purists on the samba!!
"Hi,
https://www.zarwerks.com/  technical.
From the wearing parts cranks, cams, bearings, piston rings, piston bushings, fuel pump repair kits, carb repair kits, ign contacts, rotors, distr caps, valves, valve lifters + tubes etc can be found easily. NOS cylinders and pistons will cost a fortune (some in Samba wrote a set was sold for 3000 USD!) so the hardest thing is to find a set that is good with honing and new rings or then two different size sets so that you can bore the smaller cylinders to the os of the pistons of the bigger set. There are suitable 76mm pistons from newer cars available (cost appr 300,- a set) but the best would be to find a good og set. If you want to save time and money buy the 49 block and a 24,5 hp 1953 industrial engine (you will have to convince yourself that it is a 49 block before making the decision). Then you only need to buy a an air cleaner of your choise (I hope the mushroom is og for you because they are the cheapest and the easiest to find), correct inlet manifold, a working star coil and a good exhaust manifold. I will include a correct distributor (ve4brs383), two piece cylider tin, D-regulator and a seamed fan shroud to the deal. I am asking 2500,- Eur for the block and a tested industrial engine. I beleive this is the cheapest way for you. You may pay almost 1000 Eur for the machine shop just for the work (crank, balancing, rods, heads, line boring, assembly) if you start with a worn out engine. Plus the wearing parts plus the hard to find parts will take you to the price estimates of the international tribunal for the split owners .
1st pic gives you an idea how a low hrs 1953 Industrial engine looks like. Polish it and it is ready for a show. You do not need to worry about the right formula for the engine tin paint. This one even has the original 13x850 Optima generator belt. It has run 188 hrs at appr 1500rpm. You can easily count what this would be in kilometers with a bit higher rpm. Please do not send this picture to Samba: I can tell you myself that it does not have the correct shroud, distributor , coil, exhaust and collector for a 1949 and it is even missing the carb support (most probably newer been there though). This one I will keep but I have a similar - could not find the pictures.
2nd pic is the more usual sight. My asking price for this without the block but with the the 1949 block is 1000,- incl a correcct fan shroud. It think it has 2 piece engine tin (a bit rusty), a ve4brs383 distr and 26VFIS carb but the internals are a q-mark. My plan is to disassemble it but if you buy it you'd better do it yourself in order to get it back together as it was.
If you just want the block at this stage it will be 400,- + shipping."

Guys please HELP i dont know nearly enough to make a right decision. I have not recieved any details yet on the 1948 complete engine, i quite like the idea of this as it seems safer than the other options???

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block..

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If it was me, I'd just go for the low miles '53 industrial engine and save myself a load of bother! My Heb has a NOS industrial engine fitted by the previous owner and it runs great. It doesn't have an engine number stamped on it so the original number could be added at some point.

But if you want to be sure, whatever engine you buy, you're going to want to rebuild it anyway. So I would get a good block with little endfloat and rebuild that. If you can get all the correct ancileries and tin as well in the deal then even better. So go for as close an engine number to the original as you can, but having said that, it's never going to be the original engine number so does it matter??. (you could get an un numbered block stamped though!)

You're never going to know what needs replacing untill you split the case. Or you run it as it is and take your chances.

Malc

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Yeh it would be the easiest option, but i feel like id be letting the car down doing this when ive gone to the trouble of sourcing specific 1949 running gear for the rest of the chassis!

The guy says the 49 block is in good condition. so providing this is the case i should be able to rebuild it using the 53 internals with the 49 tin ware etc he is also offereing. Im just a bit concerned about the authenticity of the block. again in having trouble with the pictures, but it looks like the alternator stand (where the engine no is) has been grafted in, which he has explained as this is an 'A' (recon) engine?

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That doesn't sound right!!
The dynamo stand should be cast as part of the right hand half of the case!!
:shock: :roll:

 8171.jpg You have insufficient rights to see the content.

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Sorry my lack of description, it looks just like the picture you have posted. Do you want me to email you the picture as im having problems attaching again?

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Ok this seems to be the best idea, i guess i could always bolt the 53 straight in and build the 49 block in the mean time, if i have enough cash left?

"If you want to save time and money buy the 49 block and a 24,5 hp 1953 industrial engine (you will have to convince yourself that it is a 49 block before making the decision). Then you only need to buy a an air cleaner of your choise (I hope the mushroom is og for you because they are the cheapest and the easiest to find), correct inlet manifold, a working star coil and a good exhaust manifold. I will include a correct distributor (ve4brs383), two piece cylider tin, D-regulator and a seamed fan shroud to the deal. I am asking 2500,- Eur for the block and a tested industrial engine. I beleive this is the cheapest way for you."

2500Euro = does this sound ok (ive still got to get it home from Finland)

I have thought about buying the unnumbered block, then putting in the Original engine number as you have suggested, but i dont know if that is a good idea, as surley if i ever sell the car i will have to tell him/her that the engine is a 'fake'? He wants 1000Euro for this, but then i will need to spend a lot more in machinine and parts, so this will work out more expensive than the above idea!?

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Lee,
I don't think I have the answer but if it's any help I'm planning on putting an industrial motor into my oval. I bought one a few years back practicaly unused. I've collected all the correct parts for it and plan to have it looking just like an oval engine. Obviously the engine number would be a give-away as it starts with 122. I'm OK with this as I plan to drive the car on a regular basis and not show it. I think what I'm trying to say is only you know what is right for the car, if you really want it 100% then go the '49 route. Alternativle, as I said before, put the '53 engine in it and enjoy it while you're building up the '49.

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Yeh, thanks for all your contributions. I think ive made a decision, im going to buy the block, and for now put an industrial engine in. The chap has 53 near mint engine 30hp, so ill make him an offer. Better go for the 30 to start with, remember my last car was turbocharged 200bhp, going to be a hell of a shock.

It seems these 'posts' have a shelf life, of 3 to 4 pages before they go 'stale' so thats it for this subject. Thanks again for your help.Lee

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